Exploring Danish Coastal Gems

I took a trip the Fanø island, a Danish island in the North Sea off the coast of Jutland. Just off the west coast of Denmark sits a little island full of nature, history and culture. The island of Fanø is part of the Wadden Sea National Park, a UNESCO protected World Heritage Site, full of sea and wild life such as birds, seals and oysters waiting to be eaten.

With few direct flights, the closest airport to the island is Esberg. The second closest airport is Billund. You can take an hour and 15 minute bus ride from Billund to Esberg. To reach the island, you then need to take a 12 minute ferry ride across, which runs every 20 minutes. I stayed at Fanø Krogaard. This boutique hotel is conveniently located 10 minutes away from the ferry on the north side of the island, also known as Nordby. ​​

​This waterside boutique hotel has a calm and cozy ambience. There is a reading nook on the main floor, and a terrace overlooking the waterfront. After checking in, I was told I was upgraded me to a seaside suite. The room made the trip all that more special, and was the perfect way to start this seaside escape.

After unpacking my things, I decided to have lunch at the restaurant. I opted for a smørrebrød, an open-faced sandwich of pickled herring in a mustard cream sauce on a piece of traditional Danish rye bread. This is a typical dish from the region and one of my personal favourite ways to eat. 

After a light lunch, I decided to check out the town of Nordby. This sweet little town has many boutiques, cafes and a few restaurants. The town is also home to many locals with perfectly manicured lawns and farmhouse bungalows. The island of Fanø is known for some of the oldest and well-preserved traditionally thatched roof houses. After a stroll through the town, I went back to the hotel to rent a bike.

​This town is so quaint and it's almost like living in a fairytale. Residents with apple trees leave small goods outside their doors, such as bags of apples for neighbours to come and collect, with coin boxes for them to pay as they want.​​​

The beach is about a 15 minute bike ride from Fanø Krogaard. After a short and beautiful ride through the town, I traversed the grassy dunes to the immense and wide open windswept beach. For as far as the eye could see, there was no sign of beach chairs, resorts, or tourists. with the exception of few other riders and cars parked right on the beach, I was mostly alone. I decided to go for an evening swim before heading back to the hotel. ​

​After taking a shower, I wandered down to the restaurant. Not wanting to go far, the hotels restaurant seemed like the perfect play to grab dinner. With a cozy spot by the window, I ordered a glass of the house wine, followed by a veggie started and a ceviche.​​

My first morning on the island, I woke up to the sounds of birds out the window. With a pair of binoculars conveniently placed by the windowsill, I was able to take in the wildlife of the Wadden sea, with a view of beached seals out my window. ​I then wondered down to the restaurant for breakfast. The night before, you have the option to choose 3 items from a breakfast menu, including yogurt with granola and rhubarb, Danish cheese and honey, and smoked salmon, served with fresh bread and butter.

​​Only 16 kilometers from top to bottom, Fanø is the perfect place to explore on two wheels. Paved bicycle paths take you almost everywhere you’d want to go, from town to beach. I rented a bike again and started on my first day exploring the rest of the island. I started on the paved past along the coast, until a reached a T-intersection which took me through a country road for the remainder of the ride. After a scenic 40-minute ride through farmland and forest, I arrived in Sønderho at the southern tip of the island. 

​​The village of Sønderho is truly darling and worth visiting for the day. I hopped off my bike and began to walk through the town. I stumbled upon Galleri Bagkant. The space has a display of local artists as well as a selection of carefully curated antiques, ranging from Japanese to Danish designs. ​

​I then continued alone the narrow paths and crooked streets of the village. Once again, you will find well-preserved homes and gardens with a backyard meadowland. ​

Just a few steps from the marsh and mudflats lies the quaint Sønderho Kro. Located at the bottom of Fanø, almost as close to the water's edge as geography can allow, you'll find this lovely little cozy inn as a final stop on a stroll down the town's curvy, winding streets. You can either indulge in a gastronomic experience or for an afternoon tea.

​​I then went back to the main street and went for a quick bite at another restaurant down the street Cafe Fajancen. This is a beautiful restaurant I would describe as a life-sized curio cabinet, with beautiful oak cabinets brimming with small treasures such as copper jars, ceramics and dried flowers. I had another smørrebrød of Cold smoked Fanø salmon with green peas in a bearnaise sauce.​

​Without a cloud in the sky, I spend the next day at the beach. In Danish fashion, I took my bike and rode to the beach. After a swim in the chilly nordic sea, I spent the day enjoying the serenity and tranquility of this widespread beach.

On my way home in the afternoon, I stopped at Fanø Bryghus, a brewery just a short bike ride up the beach road serving Danish classics such as fish cakes with remoulade, and a selection of local beer.​ As a non-beer drinker, I had little idea of what to order. Luckily the bar tender let me taste a couple before making a decision.

​For my last day, I made sure to stop at Cafe Nord, just steps away from the ferry for a last smørrebrød. This is probably the most traditional spot I dined at on the island and it did not disappoint. With a Danish only menu, I pointed simply to what the women to my left had ordered, 2 pan fried fish fillets with hand peeled shrimp, remoulade and lemon served alongside Danish rye.​

This ends my short but sweet trip to the Fano Island. As a recap, this little island is definitely a hidden gem I feel lucky to have discovered it. It ticks all the boxes of being remote enough but also with all the elements I look for when I travel: culture, art, food and design. For those of you wondering, I spent 5 days on the island. I thought it was the perfect time for me to escape the hustle and bustle of Paris. If you're coming from Denmark, it is the perfect weekend getaway.